Nikita’s Nomadic Notes

Amsterdam – this blog post is my love letter to you! Even with the most treacherous journey to get here, and the crappiest weather, this city instantly became my favourite. It surpassed Budapest which at this point I didn’t think was possible. The Netherlands is the first European country that I wholeheartedly could see myself living in but I must note, as much as I loved Amsterdam city, I probably wouldn’t live there – we all know I’m not a city gal. The country, the landscape and the culture, I was in awe the whole time. Now let’s recap my weekend.

**If you’d rather not read about my dramatic, and long-winded train problems, which definitely could be recapped in a more concise manner then skip the next 4 paragraphs**

It all started with an unusually chirpy mood on Thursday. I was ready for my travel day, eager even. After many recent long travel days with multiple transfers I was looking forward to the simplicity of the direct, 6.5hr train from Berlin to Amsterdam. Oh boy, I couldn’t have been less prepared for what was to come.

It all started a couple of hours into the journey, when the train stopped and declared it would not be continuing due to “technical issues”. This caused a little chaos, but was not unexpected of Deutsche Bahn (the German train company) who are known to be unreliable and problematic. So here we are sitting at the small station of Wolfsburg, Germany, in the freezing cold as we wait for an alternate train. This new route would require us to take 2 more trains, and have us getting in about an hour later than originally planned. Not ideal, but manageable. It’s at this point I make a new friend – shout out to Marianne, an Australian studying abroad in France, we kept each other sane throughout the day. Finally we’re onto the next train and it’s smooth sailing, after a little bit of confusion about station names and where we must get off to transfer, we disembark at Duisburg (not Düsseldorf!). From here it’s just one more train, straight to Amsterdam. Easy. We did the usual, check the platform exists, and that the correct train is displayed on the board, then went off to get some snacks. By the time we return to the platform, our train route was displayed with a large X next to it. What does that even mean?? Our train was cancelled. Storm Ciaran was having some severe impacts across the Netherlands and there was a tree down across the track.

After speaking to the ticket office a second new route was proposed. From here, two more trains, and we should make it to Amsterdam around 6, just 3hrs later than expected. The delays and problems were comical at this point, but we still had plenty of time so we’d get there eventually. Or not. The new train arrives, and we start moving, we’re on our way to Arnhem, the final transit location of our journey. The trains are packed, there are so many of us in the same situation, and we are just packed in on top of each other with all our luggage. There’s no room to move, or sit. It’s not pleasant, but it is what it is. Less than halfway to Arnhem, the train stops, this time declaring that we must get off and take a replacement bus the rest of the way to Arnhem. In turn this meant we would miss the planned connection in Arnhem but inconveniently we could take a later one. So here we are, well over 100 people, standing around waiting for the bus. At this stage, it’s freezing cold, windy, threatening to rain and getting dark. When the bus never turns up, it was getting a bit concerning. People were starting to get taxis, an 1.5hr journey to Arnhem from here, and crazy prices + demand. There’s a couple of workers in hi-vis, we ask them, they have no idea where the bus is, or if any more trains will run. It was simply confused mayhem.

After an hour of standing out here just waiting, one of the hi-vis men makes an announcement – in German of course. But the next minute everyone is sprinting back to the train tracks. Unsure of exactly what’s happening, we do too and get on the only train in the station along with everyone else. Someone informed us that the tree had been cleared and the train would continue on to Arnhem. Or so we thought. After 20 minutes on this train, it stopped. Every time there was an announcement (always in German) we could tell if it was good or bad news because everyone would cheer and clap, or boo. After getting someone to translate, there was more “stuff” on the train tracks, and the driver was uncertain if and when it would be cleared. This time, we were stopped in the middle of nowhere, it could hardly even be considered a station. It was pitch black, freezing cold and we were still in Germany. The stress was starting to set in. We befriended another girl, who spoke some German which was handy, and the three of us decided to attempt to get a taxi to Arnhem. We called the only local taxi with no response, and neither Uber nor bolt would operate here. Then a taxi pulled up in the car park and everyone just stared. So we made a move for it. For 50€ per person, it would drive us the 40 minutes to Arnhem (which was at least in the Netherlands and a bigger town). The three of us jumped in, and were joined by two more guys from our train. With 5 of us in 4 seats, plus all our backpacks it was a cosy journey, but adrenaline was running high. Of course, none of us had the cash to pay, so we had to swing by an ATM. It’s lucky we got the taxi we did, because everyone off the train started trying for taxis, and there were about 3-5 max operating from that town. With a 40min drive each way, it would be a long wait for many people. So at 7pm (4hrs after we should have been in Amsterdam) we arrived in Arnhem, the Netherlands. We jumped on the first train possible – they were getting cancelled left right and centre. The train would take us to Amsterdam South, not central like we wanted, but from South we could at least take public transport. And we made it. 5 trains, 1 taxi, and 13hrs after I left Berlin, I made it to my hostel in Amsterdam. That’s backpacking for you I guess. It was one hell of a relief and I slept well that night.

Waking up in Amsterdam, I was ready to go and see the city. I spent most of the morning enjoying walking through the cobbled streets and around the canals. Amsterdam was beautiful, and the Christmas decorations that were up certainly added to this. It felt like a true stormy, wintery day, one you’d see in the movies. I couldn’t believe how busy and bustling the streets were, even with the rain and wind.

After some lunch, I jumped on the train for 20min to visit Zaanse Schans, a historic town known for its windmills. Whilst I got hailed on, it was absolutely worth it. The windmills were so quintessentially Dutch and still operating! One was a sawmill, and another grinding dyes and pigments. I visited a cheese shop – not a biggie for me as I don’t really eat cheese, but also a clog museum. Here I was shocked, I assumed that clogs were just a traditional Dutch shoe (they are) but their main purpose is as a safety shoe! To quote the museum; “clogs, the medieval version of steel capped boots”. They’re still worn today by farmers, factory workers and so on. After Zaanse Schans, it was straight back to the hostel to get dry and warm. But I did get to catch a stunning sunset as I made my way back!

Nothing in Amsterdam opened until 10am at the earliest, sometimes 11 or 12 even. While this has not been uncommon across Europe, it was next level here. I tried the van Wonderen stroopwafels (two thin, crispy waffels, with caramel filling between, chocolate dipped and topped with something sweet) for breakfast, they were good but damn they were sweet. They were also expensive. I didn’t think about the conversion at the time but I paid $23NZD, for something that was basically a snack. However I will note, that in general, Amsterdam is not a cheap city, it is definitely more expensive than many others. After this I made my way to the Tonys chocolate factory to make my own custom choccy bar. I arrived just after opening and there was little to no queue. Here you could pick the type of chocolate (white,milk,dark) and then two toppings from a wide range, you even got to pick the packaging colours. I selected a combination of white and milk chocolate, with biscuit pieces and popping candy. An odd combo, but it was good!!

While I waited for that to be made, I embarked on a canal cruise. Thankfully the boat was covered in, it would have been awfully cold and wet otherwise. It was cool to see both the canals and streets from a different perspective. I was shocked at the number of bridges – over 1,700, Venice only has 1,300! On the boat we went past the Anne Frank House, and the James Bond House, as well as many other buildings with significance. Following the canal tour I collected my chocolate bar, and wandered around some more.

In the evening I met up with some people from my hostel, and a couple of others and we went on a pub crawl. This was lots of fun, not to mention Amsterdam is even more stunning at night! The Red Light District was certainly something else. I didn’t spend much time here, just passed through when changing pubs, but I now understand exactly why it has the reputation it does. For those who don’t know, it is an area where sex workers offer their services from behind a window, and there are a variety of strip clubs and peep shows on offer. It’s probably easier to google it, rather than me trying to explain it in any more detail.

I had one final day in Amsterdam, so I took the train to Zandvoort. I went here for two reasons, one it has a beach, and two it’s home to the Dutch Formula 1 Circuit (also known as the home of Max Verstappen). Even though we all know I’m far from Verstappens biggest fan. As I got off the train, it was already raining, but I’d come this far so I had to commit. The beach was a 2min walk, and nothing particularly impressive. There were a few brave swimmers and surfers out though. I was surprised at the number of people out and about in general, the weather was not pleasant. I walked to the track, it was about 20min, but the rain definitely was setting in. Luckily for me, there was actually some racing taking place, with the Dutch National Racing Team competing in an endurance race. So not only did I get to check out the track, but I got to enjoy the cars as well. However I couldn’t get into the covered grandstands so I got absolutely soaked. My rain jacket just stopped being waterproof at some point, and my jeans were plastered to me. It was then that I decided I should head back. I had no choice but to do my laundry after this as nothing was going to dry. Conveniently I managed to break the hostel washing machine too. I am cursed when it comes to the washing machines you have to download an app for. I spent the afternoon doing some window shopping, and even brought some new warmer clothes. I do not have enough for the weather Europe is throwing at me. On my way back to the hostel it rained so hard that the paper bags holding my clothes quite literally disintegrated and my new dry + warm clothes became wet too.

Despite the weather and my train issues, I loved my time in Amsterdam. Obviously it is widely known for its legalisation of weed, and that didn’t bother me at all. If I hadn’t have been solo travelling, I would’ve definitely enjoyed some of the treats on offer. The city felt so safe, there’s a reason it’s rated Europes safest city. It also felt so inclusive and welcoming to everyone – international tourists, European tourists, and locals alike. I will 100% be back one day.

~ Nikita’s Nomadic Notes